Desiderium Chardonnay

The 2022 Desiderium Chardonnay is broad yet coiled like a timber rattler on gravel. Aromas of pineapple poundcake, crushed river rock, saguaro cactus, and barely toasted marshmallows lead to flavors of golden berries, chanterelle mushroom, and Korean melon. Steely like a hot wood-fired stove — it moves like a crystalline ice layer over soft rained on and refrozen snow and finishes with the lift of an upside-down L.